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Alcatraz: The Prison No One Ever Escaped From

Alcatraz: The Prison No One Ever Escaped From
Carly Jacobs
I

t was a cold and rainy Saturday morning when we lined up to catch the ferry. Due to a very idiotic packing oversight, our umbrellas were tucked safety in our cupboard at home in Australia over 8000 miles away so we were drenched down to our underwear in our warm but not-at-all-waterproof down jackets.

standing in line for the Alcatraz ferry

It didn’t matter. An Alcatraz ferry leaves Pier 33 every half hour, all day and each time slot is booked out weeks in advance. We were getting on that ferry.

on the ferry to Alcatraz

The day was overcast so the ferry ride was extremely uneventful except for some snacks we purchased from the ferry store. Novelty treats are my kryptonite and it’s like every day is my birthday in the states with all corn-syrup laden goodies they have on offer everywhere, all the time. Consuming food on the island is forbidden but you can pack snacks and eat on the ferry or on the dock.

on the ferry to Alcatraz

We were uncharacteristically disorganised that morning and forgot to even bring bottled water (I still can’t figure out how that happened) but shockingly the ferry store was very reasonably priced. We bought water, a few bananas and a packet of chips for $5 USD. That’s a slightly boring detail of our Alcatraz visit but it’s useful if you’re the type of person who would panic to the point of distraction in the ferry queue about having to hand over a twenty for an emergency bottle of water.

the dock at Alcatraz

We arrived at the dock and like the good little rule-followers we are, we took the advice of everyone who has been to Alcatraz before us and we lined up for audio tour headphones. The audio tour’s reputation really does precede it, which is weird because audio tours are notoriously dull.

plaque at Alcatraz island

This one did not disappoint. It’s narrated by Patrick Mahoney, a former warden of Alcatraz. The tour gives you detailed instructions about where you need to be for each section of the tour. I have a terrible sense of direction and I’m unable to identify my left hand from my right hand in a hurry and even I found myself in the right place at the right time. It’s totally muppet proof.

audio tour at Alcatraz

The tour guides the visitors through four cellblocks and each block is three tiers high. Block A was used for study and storage because the steel bars on the cells weren’t escape proof.

the laundry room at Alcatraz

Blocks B and C were used for the majority of prisoners and Cell Block D housed the isolation cells and the maximum security cells. Prisoners were rarely sentenced directly to Alcatraz, they kind of had to ‘earn’ their way there through bad behaviour at other prisons. It was literally an island of the worst of the worst criminals.

the water tank at Alcatraz

The first few cells on the tour are bleak and bare. Even though I’m not in the habit of feeling sympathy for criminals, they looked pretty awful. But eventually the tour leads you around to furnished cells they’ve recreated to show what they might have looked like when they housed prisoners and honestly, they looked quite cosy and homely.

crocheting at Alcatraz

I was beyond excited to hear about one of the inmates who was taught to crochet by his grandmother and subsequently taught the other inmates the craft of yarn. Virtual fist bump to that guy.

crocheting in Alcatraz

The most interesting section of the tour was the part about John Anglin, Clarence Anglin and Frank Morris. In the history of Alcatraz there were 36 prisoners that attempted to escape in 14 different escape manoeuvres. The Anglin brothers and Frank Morris were the only ones who ‘succeeded’. I say ‘succeed’ very loosely as their survival has not been proven. They used spoons to chip away tunnels in their cell walls.

guard at alcatraz

It took almost a year and they kept their tunnels hidden behind posters (the escape in The Shawshank Redemption is based on this story). One evening they climbed onto the roof and jumped into the water to swim towards the bay and no one ever saw them again. There are some fantastic rumours that the brothers survived but they remain unsubstantiated.

cell at Alcatraz

Halfway through the tour, you’re lead outside on to the deck and the view is breathtaking. I stood in the pouring rain and video called my parents back home in Australia who were tucked up in bed on a Sunday morning. I couldn’t find my headphones so anyone else within earshot heard every word my mother said.

Alcatraz Island from the ferry

She hasn’t quite mastered the art of the inside voice when it comes to the video call. ‘You sound snotty? Are you snotty?’. To which I sheepishly admitted, yes I was snotty and I fully intended to blow my nose when I found a tissue.

the library at Alcatraz

I know we’re supposed to act all cool and like the internet isn’t totally awesome but showing my parents around Alcatraz via my phone was supremely rad.

stairs on Alcatraz island

At the end of the tour we returned our headphones and headed back inside to take a few more photos. This was the most hilarious part of the Alcatraz experience. Everyone else was still plugged into their tours and watching people counting their steps and following the instructions from the narrator like robots was brilliant. No was talking either so it made for very funny yet eery viewing.

the floor of alcatraz

It was an excellent day and a must see if you’re in the bay area. Our first AirBnB host, a very formidable man named Kevin, told us not to bother with Alcatraz saying it’s a ‘Dirty, expensive old prison.’ I’m really glad we ignored this advice.

rainy day at Alcatraz

At the end of the tour we headed down the street for a Blue Bottle coffee and clam chowder at Hog Bay Oyster Company and I enthusiastically recommend both. Oh and if you use the toilet on Alcatraz, lock the door if you don’t want the population of San Francisco to see your undies.

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Are you into jail culture and history? Or is it not really your thing?

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9 Comments

  1. chrisatpb 8 years ago

    Our daughter visited when she did some travelling around after doing the camp counsellor thing a few years ago. She did the narrated tour and, like you, was surprised how fascinating she found the whole experience. She brought us back a book and dvd. I guess little goody two shoes like us find a glimpse into that world fascinating. Keep up the travel log, we are enjoying it. xx

    • Author
      Carly Jacobs 8 years ago

      I think you’ve totally hit the nail on the head there. I’m such a law abiding citizen, so I find people who don’t do the right thing all the time really fascinating. I have watched nothing but the crime channel the whole time I’ve been in the US.

  2. I’ve always wanted to go to Alcatraz. The history of places fascinates me and any type of tour where you get told all the stories, is even better.

    • Author
      Carly Jacobs 8 years ago

      The narrator of the tour was actually there signing books at the end of the tour. It was awesome. I love tour guides. We had an amazing tour guide for the Fox Glacier in New Zealand and he told us so much awesome stuff. I always go on tours!

  3. So glad you got to go and did the audio tour! I found the section on the Native American / Indian occupation really interesting too as I had no idea that happened.

    • Author
      Carly Jacobs 8 years ago

      I found that bit really fascinating too! I had no idea that even happened. I was also fascinated that it was originally a place for soldiers. So much history and awesomeness there.

  4. Carly Findlay 8 years ago

    I loved my visit to Alcatraz too. It was also cold amd rainy when I went there, and I was freezing on the ferry.

    There was an old man there that day, a former prisoner, doing a book signing, apparently he was a “teddy bear”. That made me uneasy.

    Great pics. And loved that you could show your mum and dad around via video call.

    • Author
      Carly Jacobs 8 years ago

      Oh you poor thing you would have been freezing! Wow – we had a dude doing a book signing who was former warden. How strange that they called him a teddy bear when they pretty much say you have to be the worst of the worst to get into Alcatraz.

  5. M Paine 8 years ago

    When I was there Bill Baker was there signing books again… he’s the “Teddy Bear”, I bought his book and read it – he was incarcerated for Check Forging. They sent him to Alcatraz because he was always getting in fights and such at other prisons. When they say they send the worst of the worst there… keep in mind that means they are prisoners who don’t follow the rules and other prison wardens are tired of dealing with them. Yes there were violent criminals too but not all were there as murders, rapist, etc…

    Bill was 80-something when I was there and I happened to be on the last ferry back and he and I talked a bit on the ride. Nice man with a wife and family who made mistakes as a kid and although no longer in that place, they bring him back for book signings because they sell more books when he’s there… to hear him tell it anyway.

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